Mexican light

“I say it looks like Sputnik,” says one of my dining companions, sloshing a Modelo Especial in one of Taco Diner’s stubby square tumblers. “No, no,” says someone else. “A moored sea mine.” I thought it looked like the head of a mace, the spiked battle club used in medieval…

Hash Over

Midnight snack “Mico” Rodriguez of the M Crowd Restaurant Group, operators of Mi Cocina, Taco Diner, The Mercury, and Mainstream Fish House, says the defunct Mainstream Fish House outlet on Oak Lawn Avenue will open as Citizen in June. Citizen will feature a lounge aura with diffused lighting filled with…

Spin control

Rodizio means “rotation” in Portuguese. This definition, stated in a press release headlined “Totally Unique Grill to locate in the heart of Arlington,” proved significant after two visits to Rodizio Grill, a continuous-service Brazilian churrascarias, or grill house, because the quality seemed to spiral downward from markedly flawed to barely…

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La Mirabelle woos suitors Chef-owner Francois Fotre is trolling for bidders on his upscale North Dallas French bistro La Mirabelle. No, business isn’t sluggish. Fotre insists he has built a devoted following. “My February is going to beat the pants off last year’s February,” he brags. Rather, Fotre wants to…

Say cheesy

Years back, I was in a country western/rock band that toured the nation’s mid-section. This momentous opportunity came after long months in a dark, leaky basement attempting to replicate the lush orchestrations of Frank Zappa’s “Easy Meat” with a power trio, filling any melodic, contrapuntal deficiencies with generous helpings of…

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Simon does Brash 25-year-old deal wizard Tristan Simon has been busy since he cashed out his managing partner position in Cool River Cafe, the successful Los Colinas hot spot created by Stephen Hartnett (Fox & Hound English Pub) and Gene Street. Still a limited partner in Cool River, Simon is…

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Deli swap Asher Deli, the “New York-style delicatessen” that opened in Snider Plaza last fall, has been sold to the owners of Marrakesh, the Moroccan restaurant on West Lovers Lane. Sources say sluggish business prompted the move. The delicatessen was launched by Asher Investments, the partnership behind Bistro A that…

Towering confluence

On my first visit to the Chaparral Club, I brought Peter, one of my wife’s business associates. During the trip up to the 38th floor of the skyscraping Adam’s Mark tower, I mentioned that the structure used to be the Southland building, and that the Adam’s Mark spent $150 million…

Poor man’s prime

I read a blurb recently in a Windy City magazine about actor Scott Jaeck. He was lovingly described as “movie star handsome” and “as wonderful [kind, sensitive, intelligent] as he looks.” Jaeck is poised to assume the role of Peck, the male lead in Paula Vogel’s Pulitzer Prize-winning play How…

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Pomodoro/Arcodoro move? Rumors swirl that the owners of Pomodoro/ Arcodoro on Cedar Springs Road are attempting to work a deal to purchase a defunct Cedar Street bar location (at Stephan Pyles’ former Baby Routh) to house the pair of restaurants, which would move upscale after the location change. But Francesco…

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Jensen goes barley Mark Jensen–onetime chef of the Thomas Avenue Beverage Company and the Green Elephant, and chef-owner of the now defunct Mark’s on Henderson–has a new Dallas gig. He’s the new chef of The Barley House on Henderson, and he’s methodically tweaking its pubby fodder. “I don’t come in…

Oldie but goodie

Perusing all the splashy newspaper pix and verbiage gushing over the lineup at the 1999 Detroit Auto Show has been weird. It is, of course, an insufferable cliche to say “everything old is new again.” And “retro” is a term horribly worn and carelessly used. But there they were, all…

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Okianos goes SoHo Opening this past weekend, Okianos, the Mediterranean seafood restaurant on Belt Line Road in Addison, emerged as SoHo Food, Drink & Jazz following extensive remodeling begun in early October. Chris Finch, former sous chef of Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House, has gripped SoHo’s kitchen helm, creating a mid-…

Thai one on

Living in Dallas, among shiny mirrored buildings, burgeoning mutual funds, and low unemployment, it’s easy to lose global perspective. The economy is acutely robust. There’s a Nordstrom going into NorthPark. The Cowboys didn’t do so hot, but there’s a new arena being built on the Dallas urban plain. Yet in…

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Stinky stogie? There’s something funny going on at Lone Wolf, Chuck Norris’ and Dennis Overstreet’s restaurant and cigar and wine bar that appears to have been shuttered permanently. A rumor was circulating in late November that Lone Wolf was set to shut down by the first of the year. Then…

Bare-knuckle steak

Just by their numbers and consistent rosters, steakhouses have inevitably become orgies of predictability. Everything is so much the same. No surprises. No skyscraper food threatening to puncture your chin. No bizarre sea creatures dressed in mango caviar hiding in the watercress. Wine lists are hefty enough to crush a…

Let ’em eat loin

Don’t let your meat loaf Eating healthy is hazardous to your well-being. I can prove it. In the fall issue of American Outlook, writer Dennis Avery explains the inherent risks of poisoning your body with too much health consciousness. According to data compiled by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control…

Rough edges

On my first visit to Moonshine Cafe, the fine-dining divot below The Palace nightclub off Lower Greenville, my thoughts didn’t coagulate around the “New Creole” menu. Or the New Orleans street-scene mural smeared on the rear wall with real windows sculpted into the artwork offering a view of the kitchen…

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Bull rider Lisa Balliet, opening executive chef of Stephan Pyles’ AquaKnox before her sudden departure early last year, has turned up in Lakewood to undertake a new project: the transformation of The Cock & Bull. She’ll partner with Cock & Bull owner Noel Graham and sublease the kitchen to create…

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Star shuffle Star Concepts–the group Carlson Restaurants Worldwide created to absorb Star Canyon and AquaKnox after the T.G.I. Friday’s parent (presumably) gave owners Stephan Pyles, Michael Cox, and TCBY Enterprises President Herren Hickingbotham enough money to choke a herd of Texas steers–announced several position changes last week. Star Canyon Executive…

Swimming raw in Cowtown

Pangaea has a beautiful fish tank lodged in one wall. Crowds of orange, purple, and striped cichlids (perchlike freshwater fish found in South America, Africa, Sri Lanka, and India) swim among the plants and reddish rocks. They look like submerged Carroll Shelby hot rods: low-slung and flat with large mouths…

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Carrollton lights up Barely two weeks after the Dallas Environmental Health Commission held hearings exploring whether Dallas should toughen its relatively permissive public-smoking ordinance, the city of Carrollton eased its ban on smoking in public places last week. By a vote of 6-1, the Carrollton City Council approved amendments to…