I admit, I am a little early on this one. Routh Street Brewery has only been open one week. I just dropped in for a little preview dinner, I thought, planning to revisit later, according to accepted practice, so that the vast public response to my review wouldn’t overwhelm the…
I just spent an evening learning about and tasting Texas-grown escargots. That’s right, an evening with the only snail rancher–not just in Texas–but in these here United States. Dr. Richard Fullington is a malacologist (formerly with the Dallas Museum of Natural History) who got practical. Snails are yucky, as any…
Knowing chances were good that Snuffer’s would once again garner the Reader’s Choice award for best hamburger in this very newspaper, I thought I’d go check it out again. It’s been years (as many as Chips has been open) since I’d eaten at Snuffer’s. To give you an idea how…
As Chandler would put it: Could there be any more bagels in Dallas? Yes, there could, I answer, and you’ll be glad there are. Benny’s Hearth-Baked Bagels was founded by three twentysomething ex-corporate climbers who followed their feeling about the bagel business. Benny’s claims to be, and seems to be,…
“I’m sorry sir, your beer will take a few minutes because the computer’s down.” I swear a waiter said that to us this week, and it just seemed to sum up how weird modern life is. How full of contradictory baloney. The waiter worked at The Hard Rock Cafe, and…
White tablecloths, good service and, oh, yes, good food, aren’t enough to sell a restaurant anymore. Restaurants are theme parks, like movie theaters and malls, and Texas itself, unlike Nebraska, is a favorite theme. In Dallas especially, we seem to need reassurance that we live in the land of Lonesome…
Don’t you want one? Notable Dallasites donated pinatas to be raffled off at “Cerveza y Quesa at the Mesa.” Take your chance on a Dallas Cowboys pinata filled with jerseys and memorabilia. Sara Hickman’s is filled with CDs, Star Canyon’s with cookbooks and packaged foods; another is filled with $200…
Guy Calluaud is a flexible guy. Once the proprietor of Dallas’ top French restaurant, now the Hard Rock Cafe’s parking lot, Guy and his wife have since opened and closed several, mostly Gallic, eateries. The current place on Lovers has been open a year or so, and even in that…
At one time, when revolving rooftop restaurants were the latest thing, it was standard restaurant wisdom that the higher you went to dine, the worse the food. (Windows on the World at the top of the World Trade Center in pre-terrorist times being the exception that proved the rule.) Last…
As a child, I was taught, almost every autumn, that Columbus proved once and for all that the world is round. Why is it only now that we’re becoming aware that it’s global? This would be one of those “duh” concepts, except that we use the word “global” not to…
Right now I’m disturbed by definitions. The language seems to be getting less and less precise. “Family-style,” for instance. And “home cooking.” What could these terms mean in 1995? Not what they seem, that’s for sure. Avila’s is a real “family-style,” “home-cooking” restaurant. But it doesn’t serve food in communal…
We want fresh-made pasta, fresh-ground coffee, fresh herbs, and just-squeezed juice. In the age of convenience, we value immediacy, freshness, and old-fashioned “elbow grease” more than ever. So don’t be surprised that the Great Harvest Bread Company actually grinds its own flour right there in the bakery and makes it…
Lots–maybe the majority–of people are convinced that restaurant reviewers live in the advertisers’ pocket. Many times I’ve been assured by “people who know” (but don’t know what I do for a living) that all restaurant reviews are paid for by restaurant advertising, that no review is an unvarnished, honest opinion,…
Advertising would lead you to believe that Americans are living in a fat-free zone. Everything that can be is touted as less fat, low-fat, no fat. Even products that never did have fat in them have “No Fat” blaring from the bag. Tortilla chips are misguidedly baked, not fried, in…
What a prix fixe! For $35 (half of which is tax-deductible), you can sample food and wine from Star Canyon, Mediterraneo, Gaspar’s, Parigi, Dakota’s, Cafe Margaux, The French Room, Blue Mesa Grill, Laurels, and dozens more of Dallas’ best restaurants. Plus–the reason food industry events are such profitable charity–you’ll be…
Cake check: A good cake, as I point out frequently, is hard to find. Celebrity makes a decent divinity icing; Highland Park Cafeteria makes good chocolate cake. But Sweet Endings in Deep Ellum (or Plano) takes the cake. Their whole cakes start at $25 and they recently came up with…
And another nostalgic note: I went back to Los Vaqueros recently, Pete Dominguez’ retrenchment restaurant in Snider Plaza. Pete Dominguez has been serving “Austin-style” Mexican food in Dallas for over 30 years, the 30 years that Dallas grew from an ambitious town on the prairie to the mess it is…
Along with the return to mythical “family values,” an old-fashioned emphasis on the three “R’s” in school, and, of course, the Wonderbra, comes another look backward through rose-colored glasses: the renaissance of that original American meal, steak and potatoes. Even back before the Revolution, there was a “Beef-Stake Club” in…
I was just saying that what Deep Ellum needs is some basic businesses, like grocery stores, when I hear that the G-spot has opened on Main Street. That’s “G” for groceries, mostly, although you can rent X-rated videos from Jules Armstrong while you’re picking up a box of mac and…
Interpreting is a dangerous business. My trusted friend Hisashi (whom you’ve met before in this column) recently spent a lot of time following the baseball wonder boy Nomo around for Japanese television. He endured the day-from-hell at Arlington Stadium and he says it’s absolutely true that Nomo’s interpreter either didn’t…
Preston Road North is the unlikeliest new dining strip. It’s totally not fashionable, totally not a place to hang out, but evidently the neighborhood is totally filled with hungry diners. Have they just been discovered or was everyone between LBJ and Oak Lawn on a diet until recently? Lately I…
Menu writing should be taught (or maybe it is) in those culinary academies that turn out all our chefs. Or perhaps, along with the health inspection, a spelling and grammar test should be required. To read the menus in many restaurants, you’d think there were no rules of writing, in…
